Camping in Venezia -- Pt. II

The campground was filled with tiny cabins, pre-assembled tents with cots (Alvaro's and my accommodations), and areas for your own tents and RVs. There was a huge group of Uruguayan students, in Venice to study architecture. There was one traveling class made up of Indian, Austrian, German, and Turkish students (all of whom spoke English together but also seemed to know three other languages). I'll never forget how that made my world feel so limited, only knowing one language. How arrogant of me and my country's narrow education system. You could be telling me that my undies are showing, or that I have a booger the size of a euro hanging out of my nostril, and I'd still stand here with a goofy, oblivious smile on my face, wouldn't I?

Venice itself was more beautiful than any cheesy brochure had ever lead on. Wave after wave of tourists choked out the main thoroughfares as if shopping was the only thing they could think of to do, so it was very easy to stray from the wider roads and get happily lost. Tourism in Venice is a fragile, often self-destructing entity. The line every traveler must walk between "helpful" and "harmful" is especially fine in Venice. The city is overwhelmed with disposing of the constant influx of trash, so if you bring/create any on the islands, be sure to leave with it, too, and dispose of it appropriately somewhere on the mainland.

Fruits and nuts

"Your soft joy...": Reflections of Venetian Water... there were potable water spigots everywhere, just above not-so-potable canals

No, we didn't ride a gondola. 100+ Euros. Watching the gondoliers expertly maneuver these things was satisfying enough.

Contrary to popular belief, the fluctuating tides of Venice assuredly won't be the main players in its demise; Venetians have had centuries to adapt to them. 21st century tourism, on the other hand, just might be key. More people in developing countries have more money than ever before, and they're taking it to places like Venice. It's just not always flowing through the right channels. What threatens Venice more urgently, rising sea levels, or the rising affluence of an increasing world population? How do you know where to spend your foreign money, so that it helps the local economy? Give me your thoughts.

Camping in Venezia

Note to self: Next time, try to break up train ride from Paris to Venice. Don't marathon it. ever. again.

Here's a riddle for ya: How many vagabonds does it take to find a Venetian campground?

Answer: Apparently, six. With five different nationalities.

"Camping in Venice" sounds a little oxymoronic, but staying in a little tent in Camping Rialto on the mainland of the city wound up being one of the best parts of the trip. After spilling out into the street by the train station, Alvaro and I asked multiple Italians (in Spanish; I learned they are basically the same language!) if they had heard of the campground. After four or five "No"s, we finally got a "Si." Our next inquiry, its location, was slightly more difficult. We were told, all in all, to take at least three different bus routes... and of course, the bus schedule, like the rest of everything we experienced in Italy, was more a rough possibility than a reliable rule.
 
After waiting too long with too many pounds on our backs, we thanked someone who'd been quite helpful and informed him that we were just going to hoof it. The response: "Rialto is like ten kilometers away, friends! There's no way you can walk there (insert dramatic hand gestures here)!" Let me tell you something. Walking is free, sexy, and better for the environment. If you have functioning legs and a good heart, never let anyone tell you can't walk somewhere (unless of course the route in question would take you into highly violent gang territory. Then please, please don't walk there.).

One block later, we caught up with fellow backpackers, Jeanne and Leo (a French/Columbian couple). They had also grown weary of Italian bus nonsense and decided to trek. Their destination? Also the infamous Camping Rialto! After continuing for 30 more minutes and getting turned around once or twice, we encountered (insert hard-to-prounounce-and-even-harder-to-spell Polish names here). After about three hours of hiking (or dragging, rather, and asking directions at the wrong campground), we stumbled, exhausted, into the right one.

Inevitable Insomnia in Ibiza

        What can I say about Ibiza (or Eivissa, in the native language, Catalan)? This tiny island is one of the Islas Baleares, surrounded by the Baltic Sea to the north and Mediterranean to the south. It is about 1/5 the area of Rhode Island with a residential population of around 100,000. More than two million tourists visit this Mediterranean nightlife hub annually (Issues, 2013). World-class DJs perform on a regular basis, attracting young partiers from all over the globe. Even the airport hosts the likes of Eric Prydz and David Guetta. We didn't visit until late September (staying only three nights... that's about our limit of 6AM bedtimes) and still encountered more English- than Spanish-speakers.
        And I thought 'touristy' described Benidorm...

Boat party

       With such an expansive tourist impact occurring, one has to wonder how the island handles it all. There are many organizations (governmental and non-gov.) that seek to mitigate some of these impacts, from eco-tourism initiatives to massive clean-up operations throughout tourist season. There is a wide spectrum of opinions on whether or not they're doing a good enough job. Sustainability, however, has many faces, and Ibiza strives to sustain its rich cultural heritage alongside its natural environment. We can't leave out economic sustainability, either, and one certainly cannot address this without noting the considerable revenue tourism has brought Ibiza for decades.

El Capitan

Ibiza shore

        Álvaro and I stayed in the old port town of Sant Antoni, on the other side of the island from the capital harbor, also called Ibiza, A.K.A. Eivissa or Ibiza Town. Sant Antoni may not be the biggest town, but it is not without its own brand of rambunctiousness. If you want to know more, check out this BBC article from 2001 about the well-established controversy over clubbing tourism. We spoke to residents about their opinions of the tourist season, and they were just as varied as the bars and pubs dotting the beach. Some Balearios think most tourists (most notably the English, actually) are rude and impatient. Others welcome all visitors (and their spending money) with open arms and can be found at many of the clubs each night, themselves. Many don't mind the craziness but would like nightlife tourists to be less careless and more aware of their surroundings.

Pryda Frenzy (Eric Prydz and his girlfriend performing at Amnesia)

        Whatever the perspective, Ibiza's infamous marcha remains a reality for awhile yet. One can only hope that the island can find an equilibrium between its worldwide reputation and the people and resources that host it.

Reference:

Issues of Concern (2013). Ibiza Preservation Fund <http://www.ibizapreservationfund.org/english/issues/>

... a la pura vida!

It's been a year since I've posted to this blog, and oh, what has happened! A study abroad trip to Costa Rica in May; focusing on sustainable or 'eco-' tourism, organic and small-scale agriculture, and globalization's effects on communities; was an absolutely life-changing experience. From the humid lowland Caribbean coast to the central mountain range to the tumultuous Pacific coast, we really milked our mere 2.5 weeks for all they were worth.

Some of our destinations:
- Las Vueltas lodge, where we worked on the Seelye farm with Andy and his family
- Jaguar Rescue Center just outside Puerto Viejo
- Ditsowou Centro de Communidad in BriBri, Limón
- La Finca Educativa Don Juan in La Fortuna
- La Cusinga coastal rainforest ecolodge
- Diamante Falls
- Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge
- Kéköldi Indigenous Territory & Iguana Sanctuary

Boundless peace <3

credit: (c) Álvaro Campomanes