20.1.13

Eclectic, Eccentric, Euphoric... Barcelona


Spooky, fantastical Sagrada Familia light production to kick off Mercè Festival
        As we climbed the stairs out of the metro en route to our hostel, we encountered a long, snaking line of tourists that wrapped around the whole block. After walking, watching and wondering for a few moments, we finally asked someone, "Porqué hay una fila?" to which an excited Spaniard announced, "La Sagrada Familia, tios!" We had surfaced into the realm of Barcelona, straight from the train station, right next to the most iconic monolith of the city, if not the entire region of Catalonia. The eerie spires of the masterpiece of the late, great architect Antoni Gaudí towered over us as we rounded the next corner.  

The gegants (giants) of La Mercè Festival
        Little did we know at the time that we had stumbled into Barcelona during the annual La Mercè Festival. This weekend-long party near the end of each September began in 1871 as Catalonia's celebration of the Roman Catholic feast day of Our Lady of Mercy (patron saint of Barcelona). Each night, a spectacular light display on the side of La Sagrada Familia kicks off the festivities. Then every plaza in the city is alight with live music and performances, ranging from African drumming to The Beatles tribute bands. Everyone seems to participate in some way, whether through acrobatics, theater, poetry, or some other kind of artistic expression.

Street vendor capturing young imaginations

Biggest bubble!

All done with spray paint sans brushes, in about 15 minutes flat

Fresh squeezed juices in a market

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona: yarn bombing and panorama

Gaudí's famous Parc Güell

"Occupy and Resist"

        On another note: This city is so young! Just walk a few blocks and it will seem like the entire place is run by 20-30 somethings (as evidenced by this article on 2008 demographics). So many travelers we met had turned in their nomadic lifestyle for roots in Barcelona. The lure and energy of this city is palpable!

Next stop: Ibiza. Interestingly enough, a plane with Ryan Air is cheaper than a ferry. Who'da thunk it?
        I have tried and, so far, failed at finding any conclusive or reliable information on what form of transportation is more "green." As stated above, our reason for eventually going with a plane was the price. The flight was full, so that's one more-passengers-fewer-trips point for Ryan Air, but I know residents of the region take full advantage of the ferries that criss-cross the Balearic Sea (they get a pretty good discount).
        In terms of planes, ours was a relatively small passenger aircraft (the flight only took about an hour). But in terms of ferries, the Balearia boats are quite large. So which uses more fuel? Which is the Earth-friendliest option, in this case or generally? Thoughts?

19.1.13

Clubbing, cascading, & harpooning, oh my!

        ¡Hola, everyone! So, the ability to post a blog entry from each location proved entirely too difficult (well, impossible, most of the time) mostly because Álvaro and I lacked our own computers. Posting to the blog meant hunting down an internet café, and when we bothered to do that, it was for more pressing matters, like finding accommodation. I am starting to synthesize all of my thoughts, experiences and images now, after becoming more settled here in Richmond. Thanks for your patience. Keep up with us and leave a comment if you wish!

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        Our time in the city of Benidorm and adjacent towns of Polop and La Nucía on the Mediterranean coast of Spain was filled with perfect weather, more family, phenomenal tapas, and lots of dog hair. I fell in love with the people in this laid-back coastal town while spending many wind-blown car rides with Álvaro`s uncle`s Jack Russell terrier, Dixie, scurrying over my lap.

From el patio de la abuela de Álvaro
Beach life

        On the surface, within the sustainability sphere, Benidorm's policies don't seem to be as active as Madrid's, but if you take the time to get to know the locals, you quickly learn that they take pride in (and highly respect) the verdant abundance of their climate's flora. Every porch is smothered in plants, many of which have culinary or medicinal uses. The city's population (and the pressures that come with it) skyrocket during the summer months' tourist season, and I gathered that at that time the seafront is a sprawling tapestry of neon lights and competing DJs that crawls with party-goers and go-go dancers. I'm sure the city welcomes the extra income but is less excited about the extra waste.

Antonio, Sarah, yo y Álvaro
        Being here at the tail end of the summer craziness gave us a revealing view of the local cultural undercurrents pulsing through the place. That's not to say rampant clubbing and beach-bar-hopping is just a part of tourist culture--- that couldn't be farther from the truth. Álvaro's tia Sarah (she's originally from Germany but grew up in Benidorm) and her boyfriend Antonio were more than happy to give us a splendid taste of the beachfront marcha. Our visit transcended this side of the area, however. 



        Natural beauty is everywhere here, and people really take advantage of its fruits. We spent one afternoon harpoon-fishing and snorkeling the shallow reefs (and later hungrily gobbling the calamari and fish we caught!); we bared the cold, alpine rapids at the Les Fonts waterfall hike and gorge just outside of beautiful, tiny Polop; and we downed the creamy nut-based drink, horchata, that's a staple of the Alicante region and chased it with a fresh spring that has hydrated Polop residents for many years.
Les Fonts

"Water of the town, of this town, continues to be drank for twenty years, and has a bitter sweetness, but is of true chemistry that is the truest lyric yet." - my (poor) translation of the quote by the Polop spring

The streets of Polop


17.9.12

Madrid, plus a rough itinerary


        Madrid was incredible! Alvaro´s father was such a gracious host. We went hiking, visited the Palacio Real (Royal Palace), Madrid Rio, El Prado, La Puerta del Sol and many parks, experienced ´la marcha´ (Spain´s infamous nightlife), and spent a day in nearby Segovia and El Escorial.

Skaters blur by in El Parque de Retiro

        Almost everywhere we went I could see how Spain is ahead of the curve environmentally, in everything from hygene to consumerism. Toilets are always designed to save water (every single one I used had #1 and #2 flush settings :P), while as a shopper you actually have to pay for plastic disposable bags; everyone had their own reusable ones. Here, policy has done great things. In the US, if you actually use your resuable shopping bag at the grocery store, you´re inevitably labelled an environmentalist. But here, because of this decision, bringing your own bag is the more economical choice, too. You bring your own because is makes monetary sense, not just environmental sense, thereby prodding more people to save plastic and thus petroleum.

Recycling in a metro station
      


        The layout of the city was at once beautiful and sustainable. The Rio Madrid Project put a riverside highway underground and built a pedestrian- & cyclist- friendly park on top. Telephone cables and other unsightly infrastructure are beneath your feet, too, instead of cris-crossing the skyline and getting tangled in the numerous trees (apparently, Madrid boasts the most tree-lined streets in all of Europe).


One of many peaceful streets
       All in all, the air was clean, the parks green, the people passionate & friendly (and very patient with my Spanish), and the food fresh, meaty, and mouth-watering. ¡Viva Madrid!

A pool in Las Piedras
Incredible paella made by Alvaro (traditional Spanish dish with chicken, pork, seafood, veggies, & rice)
Biking the Rio
Fountain fun at the Rio
*        *        *        *       *
Below is a rough itinerary for the rest of our trip; it´s constantly having to be adjusted!

Benidorm: now until Wednesday, Sept. 19
Barcelona: September 19-24
Ibiza: 24-26
Paris: 27- October 1
Milan: 1-4
Rome: 4-10
Venice: 10-14
Florence & Pisa: 14-17
Nice & Monaco: 17-21
San Sebastian: 21-25
Madrid: 25-29

 

12.9.12

WE'RE OFF AGAIN! EUROPE 2012

¡Hola from Madrid, El Escorial, y Segovia!

Fútbol outside of the El Escorial Monastery


Europe 2012

We departed for Spain, France, and Italy on September 3; the adventure will last two months, until October 29!

Beginning with a visit to Madrid to see Álvaro's family, we'll continue on to Valencia, Benidorm, Ibiza, Barcelona, Marseille, Nice, Genova, Florence, Venice, and (possibly) Santiago, before coming full circle back to Madrid.

***Update! It ended being--> Madrid, Benidorm, Barcelona, Ibiza, Barcelona again, Limoges, Paris, Venice, Rome, Toulouse, San Sebastian, Seville, and back to Madrid
STAY TUNED FOR A POST FROM EACH CITY!

My next post will sum up my time here in Spain´s capital. Look for an entry as we depart from each location / city--- coming soon is a calendar outlining a loose itenerary so you´ll have a better idea when that will be.

So it seems the plan outlined in the previous post (east coast of Spain, southern France, northern Italy) needed to be revised. We severely OVERestimated Europe´s size... as we had planned to use our flexible Eurail "travel days" (one-way train trips) on what we didn´t realize were only 2-3 hour journeys (my how far transportation technologies have come). Alvaro´s family gave us invaluable advice; we´re paying for this train pass so why not get as much out of it as we can and take the longest trips possible in order to see the most beautiful and highly-recommended parts of the countries we´re visiting? And now that we´re more familiar with how these passes work, visiting these places no longer seems impossible. (How nice it is to have such knowledgable guides as we´re just starting out!)

Now, instead of skirting only the southernmost towns of France, we´ll be hopping from Barcelona to Paris; Paris to Milan; Milan to Rome, then Venice, Florence, and back to France to see Nice and the surrounding towns. After that, we´ll be heading back to Spain to see the northern coast (San Sebastian) and then bringing it full circle to Madrid.

This seems like a much better bang for our transportation buck; not to mention getting to see the capitals of these countries I may not see again for a very long time... if ever.

Once again, I welcome any feedback / advice.

Onward to Alicante & Benidorm tomorrow =)

8.3.12

... a la pura vida!

It's been a year since I've posted to this blog, and oh, what has happened! A study abroad trip to Costa Rica in May; focusing on sustainable or 'eco-' tourism, organic and small-scale agriculture, and globalization's effects on communities; was an absolutely life-changing experience. From the humid lowland Caribbean coast to the central mountain range to the tumultuous Pacific coast, we really milked our mere 2.5 weeks for all they were worth.

Some of our destinations:
- Las Vueltas lodge, where we worked on the Seelye farm with Andy and his family
- Jaguar Rescue Center just outside Puerto Viejo
- Ditsowou Centro de Communidad in BriBri, Limón
- La Finca Educativa Don Juan in La Fortuna
- La Cusinga coastal rainforest ecolodge
- Diamante Falls
- Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge
- Kéköldi Indigenous Territory & Iguana Sanctuary

Boundless peace <3

credit: (c) Álvaro Campomanes